2024年的期酒終於到了 !!  Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur !!

2024年的期酒終於到了 !! Bordeaux 2024 En Primeur !!

Amidst the challenges posed by climatic adversity

It appears that winemakers' acute insight

and technical expertise

have once again proven dominant

- Colin Hay
db’s Bordeaux correspondent

在氣候逆境帶來的重重挑戰之下

釀酒師們敏銳的洞察力與技術專長

似乎再次彰顯出主導力量

2024年份對於波爾多葡萄酒而言,堪稱一個為鍾情於中等酒體、馥鬱芬芳、適中酒精度,且偏好早期至中期適飲葡萄酒的愛好者量身打造的年份。


在這一年裡,坐擁絕佳風土條件,同時在葡萄園管理與酒莊釀造環節擁有雄厚財力進行精挑細選的酒莊,成功釀製出了一系列極致優雅、風味純粹且能淋漓盡致展現產區特色的紅葡萄酒。白酒方面,則以其卓越的香氣複雜度與清新的口感脫穎而出;而甜酒更是近年來少見的濃鬱佳釀,蘊含著豐富而迷人的貴腐菌風味。

 

Weather 天氣

2024 年波爾多葡萄園開局不利,遭遇嚴重霜霉病,區域產量降至 1991 年以來最低。冬季溫和多雨後氣溫驟升,促使霜霉病提前蔓延。雖不影響酒質,但酒莊需全力控病保收成。

定期噴灑「*波爾多液」是唯一有效手段,但持續降雨讓重新噴灑成為一個難題,機械化作業受阻。財力雄厚的酒莊僱人手工噴灑,如寶嘉龍莊園 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 酒莊僱 100 人耗時八週;資源有限的酒莊則優先保特定地塊,接受減產。

5 月下旬花期緩慢且不均,白馬莊園 Château Cheval Blanc 花期長達五週,涼爽多雨致授粉不佳,落花與大小粒現象頻發,採摘釀造需嚴格篩選。

7.8 月溫熱帶來轉機,降雨量比過去十年均值低 50%,利於葡萄轉色與酚類成熟,避開極端高溫。部分地區氣溫較高,此期間糖分累積慢,酒精度適中,加糖現象普遍但酒平衡感佳。

9 月,涼爽潮濕的天氣再次回歸,影響了大多數酒莊的採摘時間。梅洛葡萄的採摘大約在 9 月 20 日開始,當時正值降雨量最大的時期,導致一些葡萄出現稀釋和成熟度不足的情況。而赤霞珠葡萄則在 10 月初,經過更長的掛果期,在更溫暖、更乾燥的條件下進行採摘。

*波爾多液 Bordeaux mixture:
1882年,法國人在波爾多城發現其殺菌作用,因此得名波爾多液。它被用來防止葡萄霜霉病的侵染和蔓延。波爾多液本身並沒有殺菌作用,當它噴灑在植物表面時,由於其黏著性而被吸附在作物表面。植物在新陳代謝過程中會分泌出酸性液體,加上細菌在入侵植物細胞時分泌的酸性物質,與波爾多液產生反應,使細胞中的蛋白質凝固,同時還能破壞其細胞中某種酶,使細菌體中代謝作用不能正常進行,從而使細菌死亡。

 

Brewing & Aging 釀造與陳釀

在釀造領域,篩選環節始終是貫穿整個產區討論的核心議題。在酒莊預算充裕的前提下,密度測量槽成為眾多酒莊的得力工具。該設備透過將葡萄浸入特定密度的糖溶液,實現精準篩選:成熟度高、密度更大的葡萄會沉至槽底,進入後續處理流程;而成熟度欠佳的葡萄則會浮於表面,最終被淘汰。以白馬莊園 Château Cheval Blanc 為例,此篩選過程致使葡萄體積損失達 34%。

隨後,葡萄酒將迎來長達 18 個月的關鍵發展期。在此期間,那些在平衡性上表現卓越的葡萄酒,會在陳釀過程中逐漸積蓄酒體、香氣與濃鬱度,最終蛻變為高品質、風味完整的佳釀。

鑑於 2024 年份葡萄酒的輕盈特質,多數釀酒師在釀造時,傾向於採用更為緩慢、溫和的萃取方式,通常在較低溫度下進行,以充分展現這一年份的獨特風格。當然,也有少數酒莊成功釀造出兼具力度與濃鬱度的葡萄酒,但這只是少數派的傑作。

在橡木桶使用方面,各酒莊策略不一。部分酒莊選擇減少新橡木桶用量,以凸顯葡萄酒的純淨風味;而另一些酒莊則保持甚至增加新橡木桶的使用比例,旨在為葡萄酒構建更為複雜的中段口感與整體結構。


Quality 品質

2024年波爾多的紅酒展現出別樣風采,它瀰漫著迷人的芬芳,酒精度恰到好處,通常維持在 12.5%至 13.5%之間,極易入口。

儘管生長季降雨頻繁,但 7 月和 8 月溫暖乾燥的天氣宛如及時雨,保障了酚類物質的充分成熟,讓單寧毫無苦澀之感。正因如此,成品葡萄酒中鮮少出現因雨水過多導致的稀釋問題。赤霞珠在這一年份表現卓越,在許多葡萄酒的混釀中大放異彩。不過,風味上更偏向紅醋栗與黑櫻桃的清新果香,而非黑加侖和黑莓那般深沉濃鬱。

那些坐擁頂級風土條件且具備嚴格篩選能力的酒莊,釀造出了適合早期至中期飲用的優質葡萄酒。其中,最頂級的酒款更是展現了非凡的陳年潛力。整體而言,左岸的葡萄酒表現更為穩定,尤其是聖朱利安 Saint-Julien 和波雅克 Pauillac 的葡萄酒,品質優良。然而,聖艾米隆 Saint-Émilion 和波美侯 Pomerol 同樣佳作頻出,這不僅彰顯了頂級風土的強大實力,也體現了這一年份葡萄酒風格的多元魅力。

幹白葡萄酒堪稱今年的驚喜之作。涼爽的年份賦予了它們絕佳的集中度、濃鬱度與馥鬱香氣,口感細膩動人。

甜酒在今年同樣表現出眾,高糖分與突出的貴腐菌特徵相得益彰。這些甜酒在年輕時便能帶來奢華的味覺享受,同時具備足夠的結構與密度,可優雅陳年。

 

Bordeaux Wine Vintage 2024: A Perfect Year for Lovers of Medium-Bodied, Aromatic Wines

The 2024 vintage is tailored for enthusiasts who appreciate medium-bodied wines with rich aromas and moderate alcohol levels, ideally suited for early to mid-term enjoyment.

This year, wineries with excellent terroir conditions and substantial financial resources for vineyard management and winemaking have successfully produced a series of exquisitely elegant red wines that showcase the region's characteristics. In terms of white wines, they stand out for their exceptional aromatic complexity and refreshing palate. Furthermore, the sweet wines of this vintage are notable for their richness and the captivating flavors of noble rot.

 

Weather Conditions

The 2024 Bordeaux vintage faced a challenging start with a severe outbreak of downy mildew, resulting in the lowest regional yields since 1991. A mild, rainy winter followed by a sudden rise in temperatures accelerated the spread of mildew. While this did not impact wine quality, wineries had to focus on disease control to protect their harvest.

Regular applications of Bordeaux mixture were the only effective means against the mildew, but persistent rainfall made reapplication difficult, hindering mechanized operations. Wealthier estates employed manual spraying, such as Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, which hired 100 workers over eight weeks. Wineries with fewer resources prioritized specific plots and accepted reduced yields. 

By late May, flowering was slow and uneven, with Château Cheval Blanc experiencing a prolonged five-week flowering period. The cool, rainy weather led to poor pollination, resulting in flower drop and variability in grape size, necessitating strict selection during harvest.

In July and August, warmer temperatures brought relief, with rainfall significantly below the ten-year average, aiding grape color change and phenolic maturity while avoiding extreme heat. Although some areas saw higher temperatures, sugar accumulation was slow during this period, resulting in moderate alcohol levels, with some instances of chaptalization but maintaining good balance.

In September, cooler, humid weather returned, affecting harvesting schedules for most wineries. Merlot harvesting began around September 20, coinciding with the heaviest rainfall, leading to some grapes being diluted and under-ripened. In contrast, Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested in early October under warmer, drier conditions after a longer hang time.

 

Brewing & Aging

In winemaking, the selection process has been a central topic of discussion across the region. Wineries with sufficient budgets have utilized density measurement tanks as a valuable tool. This equipment allows precise selection by immersing grapes in a sugar solution of specific density: riper, denser grapes sink to the bottom for further processing, while under-ripe grapes float to the surface and are discarded. For instance, Château Cheval Blanc's selection process resulted in a 34% loss in grape volume.

Following this, the wine undergoes an 18-month critical maturation period. During this time, wines that exhibit excellent balance gradually develop body, aroma, and richness, ultimately transforming into high-quality, flavorful products.

Given the light characteristics of the 2024 vintage, most winemakers have favored slower, gentler extraction methods, often at lower temperatures, to fully express the year’s unique style. However, a few wineries have managed to produce wines with both strength and richness, though these are the exception rather than the rule.

In terms of oak barrel usage, strategies vary among wineries. Some have opted to reduce new oak barrel usage to highlight the wine's pure flavors, while others have maintained or even increased their use to build more complex mid-palate structures and overall profiles.

 

Quality

The red wines of Bordeaux in 2024 display a distinctive charm, with captivating aromas and alcohol levels typically between 12.5% and 13.5%, making them very approachable. Despite frequent rainfall during the growing season, the warm, dry weather in July and August ensured the full maturity of phenolic compounds, resulting in soft tannins without bitterness. Consequently, there are few issues of dilution from excess rain in the final wines. Cabernet Sauvignon excelled this year, shining in many blends, offering refreshing fruit flavors of red currants and black cherries rather than the deeper, richer notes of blackcurrants and blackberries.

Wineries with top-tier terroir and rigorous selection capabilities have crafted high-quality wines suitable for early to mid-term consumption. The finest wines from this vintage demonstrate remarkable aging potential. Overall, the left bank wines have shown more consistency, particularly those from Saint-Julien and Pauillac, which exhibit excellent quality. However, Saint-Émilion and Pomerol also produced outstanding wines, showcasing the strength of their exceptional terroirs and the diverse appeal of the 2024 vintage.

Dry white wines are the surprise stars of the year. The cool vintage has provided them with exceptional concentration, richness, and fragrant aromas, resulting in a delicate and captivating palate. Sweet wines have also performed excellently this year, with high sugar content and prominent noble rot characteristics. These sweet wines offer luxurious tasting experiences even at a young age while possessing sufficient structure and density for elegant aging.

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